Walter & Group.........
From Jim Laing:-
From Jim Phillips :-
Gordy et al,
For us trout fishers, I teach it by explaining question 2
(when used & why) first, so the student can visualize the why we
need the cast or what it can do for us.
2. It can be used for fishing
usually small, brushy streams surrounded by foliage making normal casts
very difficult.
1. The casting image I try to project is shooting the
fly through a window or small opening to a target. Get about one rod
length of line out of the rod tip and use the stripping finger to pinch the line
from the reel against the cork or handle. Then pull back on the fly to bend the
rod like a bow. Point the rod thru the opening and at the target, then release
the fly and let the bent rod unload and shoot the fly at the target
..
This is normally for short casts in tight areas.
3. I'll take a
shot at extended casts.
When you have room at your feet to pile up
some extra line and the leader, place the amount of line you can handle with
respect to rod and line weight, wind in your face, amount of space, etc, then
pinch the line as you would the fly, pinch line against the handle, pull back as
before and load the rod, aim, and release. With enough practice and skill,
one could also shoot a small amount of line after the unloading and while
the line is being propelled forward. Using 0-4 weights, I find the
line so light it is difficult to shoot any line.
4. I once caught a large snook in a mangrove creek while fishing with Bob
Andreae at Chokoloskee a few years ago from Bob's canoe. No earthly other
way to make a cast, since the creek was narrow and the mangrove trees so close
overhead that they were at about head height. How in the world I was able
to keep the critter out of the mangrove roots, neither Bob nor I could figure
! (We sometimes call that a, "suicide fish". I can't claim skill on
my part.)
Cheers, Jim
Phillips
skifishvail
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Jim... Well done. I would add these comments:
1.) Works better with short belly lines with short fast forward tapers.
2.) Easier with a line one designation higher than the rod rating.
3.) Easier with a short leader. Also, a non-weighted fly.
4.) When teaching the distance bow & arrow cast, crouching helps, because you have less line hanging down from your hand. That translates into less slack.
5.) The line shot out on the distance B&A cast, does not shoot through the guides. This line must be stripped from the reel and drawn out of the guides and tip top and placed on the ground or deck in front of the caster. You then pinch the line betwen the reel and the cork grip, and then reach forward to grasp the line out of the rod tip as far as you can reach and pull back thus bending the rod for a good load. As you let go of it for the cast, you flip the rod tip forward.
6.) Works much better with a fast and a longer rod.
7.) On the distance B&A cast, you can, "cheat" a little by adding just a little stroke length and rod arc . (As shown in Jason Borgers, THE NATURE OF FLY CASTING, pp. 249-250.)
8.) Don't teach the distance ("extended" Bow & Arrow cast until your student gets proficient with the standard one.)
Gordy