Teaching wheelchair bound students / Leader problems

Walter & Group........

From Bill Toone on handicapped fly casting students:-

 

Regarding upper body strength for wheel chair bound casters, I am not sure

I would agree they have stronger upper body strength. At least in regards

to those newly to wheel chairs such as the PHW wounded vets. In addition

since a lot of the Vets also have nerve and muscle damage thanks to IEDs

their arm strength in general is reduced.

It was working with the PHW Vets which prompted me to originally start

this question about shorter rods for wheel chair bound casters and remains

my current focus regarding this issue. I am however in agreement that a

rod in the 8' to 8'6" would be best for wheel chair casters as a starting

point. Then allowing them to evolve from there regarding rod length as

their strength and casting abilities improve.

Regards,

Bill Toone

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Bill,

As an orthopaedic surgeon, I have had many wheelchair bound patients.  Some of them have unusually strong arms and hands.  Some, especially those who have had multiple injuries or neurological problems had upper extremity weakness.

Each must be evaluated and taught fly casting depending upon the individual strengths and weaknesses.

In general, I agree with your use of shorter fly rods.

Gordy

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From Gary Kell ....leader problem :

Subject: Leader problems

Allen & Group.............

Leader problem ... from Gary Kell :-

Hi Gordy, 

 

I have a situation develop that I thought maybe you and/or the group may want to discuss.

 

I started fishing for Musky this year. I'm working with a local guide on the Allegheny River who wants to learn fly fishing so he can expand his guide business for fly fishers. The other night we were out and I had a "once in a lifetime opportunity" to catch a very large Musky (4 foot give or take & 30 - 35#s)!   I was fishing a foam head diver (PSP Diver) and this large Musky just inhaled the fly ... in the process of setting the hook the line went limp.  After inspection I found the fish had severed the 30 # Tyger wire clean,as if cut with wire cutters.  I'm trying to decide what to do next?  Of course, I want as much flexibility in the bite tippet as I can get to maintain the action of the fly and for "castability" but I don't want this to happen again.  On his casting gear the guide uses 80# Flouro. and  he also has some 60 or 65 # uncoated 7 strand.   I thought I would try those but I'm looking for any sugggestions the group may have.

 

I'm using a short 4 foot leader tapered to 30# with a perfection loop .... then I tie the bite tippet to flies using a non slip loop and add 30# mono with an Albright and a Perfection Loop.... this way changing flies I just slip the loops.  I'm considering a Bimini but not sure I need it--- any thoughts??

 

Gary

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Gary, 

First let me congratulate you on your hookup.

We have had 30# Tyger wire break (or cut) this way when fishing for sharks and barracuda.  I my own experiance, it usually gave way where the wire exited the knot... though not always, especially with, "spinner sharks" which are black tip sharks and mackerel sharks which spin wildly as they leap.  I've checked carefully for wire defects in new material and never found any.  I've had these sharks go through absolutely any wire shock tippet I've ever used.  This is why it is so rare to actually land one of them.  Because of the twisting of these jumping fish, the longer the wire leader is, the greater the chance of a crimp.

Years ago, my father got a club record spinner shark by using 12" of nylon covered 40# Sevenstrand cable.  To avoid a knot (which can act as a stress riser) he made a loop in either end of it after passing one end through the hook eye, folding it over and fusing it with the heat from a flame cigar lighter.  The nylon melts and fuses well.  It is surprising how seldom the fish scrapes the nylon, "weld" enough to have it come apart.  This is a trick he learned from Bill Barnes in Costa Rica.

One of the fly fishermen who entered shark tournaments at Shinnicock, Long Island used "SEVENSTRAND" wire bite tippets.  To avoid a knot, he used crimp sleeves.  Another had a son who was a welder.  He had his cable tippet loops spot welded.

I use a long shank hook with the fly tied way back toward the bight of the hook and a short (6") bite tippet of #2 or #4 stainless steel mono wire.  I marry this by means of an Albright Special to 6" of 50# nylon monofilament which is fastened to my class tippet with a modified Huffnagle knot.  I make my decision as to whether or not to use a Bimini Twist system on the strength of my class tippet.  If I elect a class tippet of 20# test, I don't use the Bimini.  I do with anything less.

Obviously, leader flexibility is somewhat sacrificed with this arrangement.  Because of that, I fasten my fly to the mono wire with a haywire twist loop so it can swing well.

There are days when the toothy critters (especially Spanish and King mackerel) won't touch a fly if wire of any kind is used.  In that event, I simply use the long shank hook with the class tippet attached directly too it.  I lose flies, but at least have a chance to land these fish.  I would not do that when attempting to catch a, "once-in-a-lifetime" fish such as yours.

These are my ways of handling similar situations.

LET'S HAVE SOME OTHER SUGGESTIONS FROM THE GROUP.

Gordy

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From Al Crise:-

Howdy Gary and group

 Many years ago I was a offshore fisherman. Florida Keys Marathon area. The mackerel would cut the leaders if they got a tooth near it. I used Johnson siiver spoons and feather headed jigs. On to these I haywired solid #7 wire in COFFEE color. The bright would not do near as well. This was anywhere from 15 ft for the big rods to 8 to 10 inches for the smaller rod. We did not fly fish for them at that time. [Early 60s]. On windy days that we lost our charter I was free to fish the backcountry or Florida Bay. Here most of my free time fishin' was with a 6 wt fly rod or my 11 wt for tarpon and Bones. The 11 was set up with #30 leader and 20 pound tippet. Unless the water was really clear then I might drop to 10 pound tippet for bones.

 The mangroves were often my choice of places to dodge the wind. Always windy on my free days.

So the little rod was used to search the roots for snappers, grunts, cuda. and reds. Cuda would take most long flies hackle tied to the bend of the hook makeing the shank the bill or nose of the bait fish. Tandem hooks were used. I was most often to find the 10 pound mono was working. Unless that hook was taken deep. Today the Circle hooks will bit in at the jaw and the leader will be free of the teeth. but not of the body or bottom. Tying the Circle hook with the point under a glued on eye will work for saltwater fish and bass. I have not tried it on sharp tooth muskies. but have on chain Pickrel. Here it did well. I do like the long er shank when removing the hook. Still have all ten fingers.

The solid strand wire will kink if the fish does a lot of spinning, as the small sharks, gar and ling do.

 

ol Al

Allen Crise

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Al...   The choice between circle hooks and standard ones for flies, will be a topic for another round of discussions.

 

Gordy
FFF Master Casting Instructor
Hawk Ridge Flycasting School