Salt Water "Quick Cast" / Application of Bruce Richards' 6 step method.

Starting Jan. 1, 2009, the new FFF Master Fly Casting Instructor Performance Test will be used.

One of the tasks will be to perform the salt water "quick cast" as one would make it from the deck of a skiff. This is to be followed by an explanation of the challenge faced by an angler who attempts to cast when wading a flat. The exact wording is as follows:-

Task 14. First, explain and demonstrate a saltwater quick cast from a flats skiff. Begin by explaining the purpose of the cast. Address all steps in line preparation and executing the cast and include every step in the process. End by presenting the fly at a minimum distance of 60 feet with no more than 3 false casts. Secondly, explain the line handling challenge that an angler faces when wading an ocean flat. Hauling required.

Expectations: The explanation should match the demonstration and be focused at students/anglers who have never fished from a skiff. The demonstration should exhibit good line control with consistent loops after the initial pickup. Line and leader should straighten completely. No tailing loops.

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Tony Loader and I trade messages concerning our group discussions with the intent of assisting each other toward further education. We have been discussing something related to the new requirements that leaves us both in a quandary. Although Tony did not ask me to ask you this question, I know he will also appreciate any assistance you can give us. Being a blue water specialist, this should be right down your alley.

I/We have the - Explain and Demonstrate the "Salt Water Quick Cast" when fishing from a skiff down pretty pat. I feel comfortable with this part of the requirement due to the ease of holding the fly, which is something you have always stressed as one of the most important aspects of this cast. No problem from the skiff.

When wading this becomes another situation altogether due to holding loops. It is obvious that after a cast, you cannot hold the fly until after you retrieve the line. Holding the fly if you are using a stripping basket is also not a problem. However if you are holding loops in your line hand and the rod in the other, trying to get the fly into your fingers becomes a very awkward and difficult maneuver. I have had numerous people tell me that when wading they do not hold the fly, they just leave the line outside the rod tip lay on the water's surface until they make the roll cast.

What is your take on this? Are we indeed expected to be holding the fly during the wading the flats portion of this requirement if we are also demonstrating holding loops? And if so, how the devil do you do it without looking like a bumbling idiot? How do you bring the fly into you and when? Any help along these lines will be greatly appreciated.

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I don't consider this an easy task at all. For those who are not using the salt water quick cast on a regular basis, it will take lots of practice. The candidate will need to think through each step of the set-up as well as the parts of the cast, itself. If that isn't done, the presumption is that he/she will not be able to teach it effectively.

Some of our best Florida Keys guides actually request that their anglers refrain from using the Salt water quick cast, because they have learned through bitter experience that most of their clients fail in the attempt and spoil what might be the best shot of the day ! This despite the fact that they know that when well done, it can result in greater distance with fewer false casts.

It is described and shown well in diagrams in Joan Wulff's FLY CASTING TECHNIQUES, pp. 210-215.

A variation on this theme is found in Jason Borger's NATURE OF FLY CASTING, pp. 210 - 212. (I find this method works OK unless there is a strong wind from in front in which instance, the line and fly tossed ahead may be blown right back and hit the caster. Works best with a strong wind from behind, for obvious reasons.)

Adding to this, I'll note that there are various acceptable ways of dealing with the line coils draped from the line hand, the reel, and the rod tip. These include : 1.) Having all of these on the deck upon which the angler stands, 2.) Leaving the longer coils behind the caster on the deck behind the casting deck, 3.) Allowing more (or even most) of the line in the water. 4.) The use of a stripping basket. 5.) The use of a bucket or commercial, "Line Tamer" device. 6.) The use of a plastic or metal hook on the caster's belt on which loops can be draped. 7.) Holding one or two loops in the mouth. 8.) Stuffing the top end of a loop or two beneath the belt line of the caster's pants.

#1.) Is most frequent. #2.) Works best when strong winds are blowing. #3.) Is least preferred because, a. Weeds may gather on the line. b. The guide may be poling forward or using an electric motor. The line may end up under the hull of the skiff. I have even seen anglers leave enough line in the water that it gets tangled in the electric motor propeller ...... a disaster !

The fly can be held (at the hook curve), point up and away from the caster in the line hand between the thumb and forefinger. The loops of line out of the rod tip can be held by the same hand in a couple of ways:-

1.) One loop for each of the remaining 3 fingers. 2.) Two or three loops held in orderly fashion by all remaining 3 fingers at once.

Some have taught holding the fly with the rod hand. Most find this awkward. Others have found that this method increases the danger of getting hooked. On the cast, it is best to let the inertia of the fly line pluck the fly from the fingers.

First, note how the question is worded. It says, ".... explain the line handling challenge that an angler faces when wading an ocean flat."

I find a substantial difference when wading as opposed to standing on the deck of a flats skiff. I may be standing in water anywhere from ankle deep to depth above knee level. This means that almost all coils of line longer than 3 feet will be touching the water, thus forming an impediment to casting as energy is used plucking the ends of the loops from the water. That limits the length of line I can have out of the rod tip which translates into limited casting distance. Sometimes there is a current on the flat which can make the problem worse if the ends of the line coils are in the water. Weeds can also get on the line. More than a little line in the water can get tangled between my legs as I wade. I can't alway see that, because my gaze is on the fish. I have even made the mistake of actually stepping on my line in very shallow water, particularly if I've elected to use an intermediate sinking line. In short, I think I've made about every mistake possible over the years ...... so I know first hand the challenges !

All that makes me very conservative with regard to the length of line I allow out of the rod tip. See: Lefty Kreh's FLYFISHING FOR BONEFISH, PERMIT & TARPON (Lefty's Little Library series.) p. 79.

Fortunately, when I wade, I have the luxury of being able to get a lot closer to the fish without spooking the critter than I ever could while fishing from a skiff. That is due to many things including the fact that I'm lower down and I know to wade very softly. That makes a lot less disturbance than the "shock wave" of a poled skiff. Also, I don't have a guide way up on a push-pole platform holding on to a 22 foot long pole to help spook the fish.

1.) I carry less line out of the rod. (Don't carry any more line than you can handle easily under prevailing conditions !)

6.) I capture the fly and hold it between my thumb and forefinger before draping the loops.

7.) If I do need a bit of extra distance, I may elect to carry one loop in my mouth.

8.) I have also tucked a short loop or two beneath the belt or between me and my wading shorts.

9.) When the fish are very spooky and the water very shallow ..... say with nervous tailing bonefish and a "severe clear sky", I'll sometimes leave the fly in the water behind me as I wade and hold the fly rod so my rod tip is way back behind me. NOT up high where the fish is likely to see it.

10.) Under the conditions described in 9.), I'll sometimes crouch way down as the fish move toward me. That increases the casting and line handling challenge, because the loops will be in the water.

11.) Rarely, there will be a strong current coming from behind you. In that instance, you can do as you might do when river fishing ..... one long loop, "for the river" (Joan Wulff's description) and progressively shorter loops draped over the fingers of the line hand. (Shown in detail in Joan Wulff's FLY CASTING TECHNIQUES, pp. 115 - l20.) The trick to keep the loops from tangling is to have a significantly different length for each loop !

12.) Once in a while, I'll use a trick I learned from Lefty Kreh ..... wading forward while repeatedly making short roll casts, not necessarily ever holding the fly in hand.

13.) If I happen to have a strong current coming toward me while fishing a smooth sand flat with no obstructions, I may allow my line to dangle down-current behind .... then use a water haul (tension cast) to present to the fish. That way, I need no false casting.

I've given you a lot more information that you will need on your exam. This gives you enough background information that you can formulate your own "short answer". This should include :

# Some basic ways of handling them. (Including both ways of dealing with the fly.)

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LET'S INVITE DUSTY SPRAGUE AND SOME OF OUR OTHER SALTY FLY FISHERMEN TO PROVIDE THEIR INPUT. G.

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Maybe I,m being too simplistic here but it seems to me that the six step method that Bruce Richards advocates really applies to this kind of discussion. If the loop formation caused the fly to be delivered to the target in an undesireable manner ie the "swinging loop" then the root cause is what the hand did to transmit the error through the rod tip and then to the line.

We all know what the cure is--ie devise a method (and there were several great examples of ways of doing that in this discussion) to correct the fault by getting the student to practice and maintain good tracking through what ever method you can come up with for him/her to get that line to follow the direction of the rod tip that the hand supplied.

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Problem with this particular casting fault lies in I. (See what the line does.) As I pointed out, this can be elusive when the instructor is standing off to the side as we often do.

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