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  • Fly rod actions & Wts. / attachment : Spey for MCCI exam



    Walter & Group........

    Note my attachment on Spey tasks for the MCCI exam.

    From Al Crise's Group messages (in line with our recent discussions on rod characteristics) :-

    Howdy Casters.
     Well this last quiz has brought out some great points to think on and in trying to make the cast right or wrong.
    Here's is Tony's comment on Troy's statements. You talk about your worlds apart: Troy in just this side of the Artic Circle near Dead Horse. AK. Tony is down under in the land of Oz.  
    What do you think the answer is to this?

     
    Hi Al,
     
    In my answer to Question 1, I made the statement "A softer rod will make more open loops (for a given energy input) than a stiffer one." to which Troy has responded:-
     
     "Disagree.  Soft rods lead to deeper loading, and commonly result in tailing loops rather than wide, open loops."
     
    Would it not be true that a tailing loop is a result of the way the rod is accelerated rather than a reflection of the flex characteristic of that rod?
    Assuming that their respective tip paths were made ideal (by an excellent caster), would it not also be true that a softer rod, having bent more deeply in response to a given energy input than a stiffer rod, would subsequently unbend more deeply, thus forming a more open loop? Am I missing something here?
     
    Regards,
    Tony.

     
    My comment:  
     
    I think that both Tony and Troy could be considered correct !
     
    It's more difficult for most casters to make a really tight loop with a soft (slow action)rod compared with a stiffer (fast action) one.  Experts can do it.
     
    As Troy says, "soft rods lead to deeper loading.....".  In the hands of most casters, this often results in larger loops. 
     
    With inexperienced casters or casters who are not proficient with the altered timing needed when casting these soft rods, we often see tailing loops because of their tendency to use more acceleration early in the stroke than they can maintain.  This causes the rod tip to deflect and then return during the stroke which is the concave rod tip path producing the wave in the line which translates to the crossing of the fly leg over the rod leg during loop formation. ..... A TAILING LOOP.
     
    The fly in the ointment exists in Tony's statement:  "(for a given energy input)".  As I see it, the energy input may be the same or not ... what is important is not so much  this, but when this energy is applied.  That gets back to the difference in timing needed for casting fast vs. slow rods.
     
    Let's relate this to the choice of rod for a brand new casting student.
     
    Most of us would recommend a medium action rod for this.    Why ?
     
    With the stiffer, fast action rod everything happens so fast it's hard for the student to grasp what is going on.
     
    With a very soft, slow action rod, it's too easy for him to apply inappropriate timing of power, so he's more likely to be plagued with tailing loops.
     
    Gordy
     
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
     
    Good advice from Gary Eaton:
     
    Walter & Gordy,
     
     I see a lot of different concepts being provided as support for not up lining a rod. I may be confused but, Walter, I think you make great points for a lot of things but not necessarily against up lining.
     
    A few of concepts-
     One of my colleagues is W.Powell's granddaughter and I read that he believed all rods were capable of handling a three line weight designation. A 6 weight is really a 5,6,7 weight. I think that the variations in line weight and head length make this even more true today. Line design has become complex enough that knowing the line used is a critical element.
     
    Many line weight designations on rods are a result of casting testers saying they thought the rod they test casted was an "X" line weight. As I teach my students, the first thirty feet of fly line is standard (sort of) all else in fly fishing is opinion.
     
    The intent of the tools may change the line weight. I own a custom 2 weight bamboo - it requires a DT or TT in 2-3 weight to hold up on tight casts without a lot of flex distorting the rod leg beyond 35 feet. If you try to cast much less than 30 feet with these lines a crisp haul is nearly mandatory to tighten the loops. Early rotation with this rod and you had better be throwing a 3 fly rig or a big indicator. My one-ounce outfit is very similar. I would not want to throw anything but delicate flies with these, though.
     
     
    I think Bill Hannemann's Common Cents System is intriguing. It has some rough spots but demonstrates a way to compare rod actions if not predict how an angler may 'like' or 'dislike' any particular rod. Something similar, if followed by rod companies would raise fury in the industry but, might simplify the initial evaluations to the benefit of the consumer. I don't advocate it as the ultimate selection criteria but, see some potential usefulness.
     
    One of my friends is pro-staff for a well known rod company. Their rods are works of art. They cast and fish beautifully, too, until there is more than a relatively small amount of wind or a need for a quick, authoritative series of mends. Even manufacturer's reps for this company recommend using a line weight less than designated on the rod. They go from tip movement to 35% of the rod bent over about two ounces of force. I own some rods from this manufacturer and I am glad I have them. I fish them in a narrower range of circumstances. Nearly every manufacturer has a rod that has similar traits.
     
    All rods have limits as do all casters. I practice with a variety of rods so I can handle the broad range of gear that arrives with students. They usually want to cast their own gear and a serious instructor will be able to find a use for almost everything from E-glass to the stiffest graphite. If it is a struggle, I give them a situation to use their ancestral buggy whip or broom stick and allow them to "borrow" one of mine for the rest of the class. I try to always preserve the honoring of the tradition that an heirloom rod represents regardless of functional use. I have so honored a rod from my family with a respected place on the wall in my home.
     
    I up line rods in a beginner class to enhance the tactile experience for students acquiring a new skill. For the previously unmentioned rod company "up line" is a relative term. I also think that putting on a very long belly line is a form of up lining for some rods when casting beyond 45 feet.
     
    I caution everyone not to go up too many line weights lest they be injured or enhance rod breakage on big casts. Most of the casting injuries I treat relate to going to heavier outfits or longer belly lines wihout adequate discretion for getting used to the increased demands.
     
    The same way a dedicated instructor will ready themselves for a variety of gear, so I find it challenging to mis-line a rod with the wrong line, too light or too heavy, and see how quickly I can adjust my casting to generate credible casts. I think it is a good way to acquire versatility and a bit of analytical stimulus.
     
    So I fundamentally agree, Walter, that the important match is the outfit to the angler and the line designations offer a starting point for a not too simple task. If there was a simple rule-of-thumb like going up two line weights, someone would release a different line or rod design to confound the assumptions.
     
    Respectfully,
     Gary Eaton
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
     
    Comment:  As Gary says, you can, "up line" any rod by using a long belly line.  All you have to do is to have more than 30' of line out of the rod tip.  With these lines, every extra 5 to 6 feet of line out of the rod means that you are casting with a line of one more designation.   Example:  If I cast 30' of a #6 line on my fly rod, I may be close to the best wt. that rod can handle.  Many modern rods will handle this 30' plus another 5 - 6 feet of line very well.  This means that when I do this and cast with, say 36' of this same line, I'm really "uplining" by one designation or handling the weight of a # 7 line.
     
    Now, if I carry, say 54 feet of line while false casting this same outfit, I'm really casting the grain weight of a # 10 line !
     
    This may or may not overload this rod, depending upon it's design and, "power".  It does NOT mean (as Walter pointed out) that this # 6 rod is really a # 8 rod and certainly not a 10 wt.
     
    The # 8 and # 10 rods, will have a higher RANGE of line weights than the # 6 which thay handle well.
     
    The shooting tapers don't have, "bellys" .... only shooting line of very little mass behind them ..... so you can't increase the load on the rod by increasing the length of line carried significantly.
     
    The reverse is also true:   If I false cast with about 15' of my #6 line out of the tip of my # 6 fly rod, in effect I'm casting with a 3 wt. line !  The fact that I can do that by, "tip casting" relates to the range of line weights which that rod is capable of handling.
     
    Gordy
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    From Troy Miller:
     

    Walter said 

    “…if I was to find that the 3 weight rod I've purchased for small fish on small streams so that I can make delicate dry fly

    presentations is in reality a 5 weight rod and I have to go through all kinds of contortions with line selection and leader design to get those delicate casts

    I would probably be a bit annoyed with the rod manufacturer.”

     

    Please don’t get the idea that this has happened overnight.  The manufacturers have not collaborated against us and arbitrarily reassigned new line weight values.  But you do have to admit, with our ego-based selves, we love to talk about casting to the backing with a 5 weight, or landing a 10 lb brown on a 3 weight.  It’s quite fashionable these days to try to wear Lee’s shoes and catch the biggest fish on the lightest equipment.  JMO, but I think this has led to a gradual morphing of what inherent power flyrods possess today, compared to the rods that I used 30 years ago.  And I’m not even opening Pandora’s “modulus” box.  Grandpa used a 6 weight to cast a #16 BWO to a trout at 40 feet and enjoyed the heck out of it.  I cast the same terminus with a modern 4 weight to that trout, and feel smug about it.  In reality, I think the only real difference is that Grandpa had bigger forearms than I do…  J

     

    Marketing hype abounds in EVERY market type in America.  My computer operates 10,000 times faster than the 286 machine that I bought in 1990.  Does that mean that I can get 10,000 times as much work done?  Of course not.  Technology is great, but not just for technology’s sake.  I only care about it if it can do something tangible for me.  Otherwise, we’d have to all of our possessions every couple years…  I still enjoy the daylights out of fishing the very first flyrod my Mom bought me in 1971.  I’m exceedingly careful with it, because I already consider it an heirloom that I hope my son will treasure when he inherits it.  I want him to look at it and say to his best buddy flyfisherman, “And this is what started the whole thing with my Dad…”

     

    I’ll stick my neck out here, and say that if you take a 6 weight TCR out fishing, and you’re planning to cast small to medium sized poppers to smallies on Sylamore Creek in Arkansas (max casting distance = 50 feet, most will be 30 to 40 feet), then you’ll probably wish you hadn’t strung it up with your standard WF6F.  Cuz you’ll have to pound the rod to death to make it work for you.  Load it up with a 7 or 8, and you’ll enjoy the day fishing.  I know this is an extreme example, but I believe most of the industry is headed that way (with a few notable exceptions such as Winston’s trout rods).

     

    I think a solid basic understanding of rod design and construction should be on the manifest for any aspiring MCCI.  And Don Phillips book “The Technology of Fly Rods” is the best reference manual I know of to give you, the instructor, complete and correct fundamentals of what you need to know.  Find it, buy it, read it, and know it.  Don’t get bogged down in some of the heavy physics (unless you want to).  It is FASCINATING reading unless you’re already a rod designer.  It tells EVERYTHING you need to know in order to understand how you can make a slow action rod out of a high modulus material, or conversely, a fast action rod out of low modulus material.

     

    FWIW, my opinion again.

     

    Regards -- TAM


     
     
     
     

     

     

    Attachment: FFF Master Certified Instructor Test - Gordy Hill Notes.doc
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