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  • Teaching fishing clients / Questions on Spey/ Fly reels



    Walter & Group........................

    From Ken Cole:-

    Good morning, Gordy and group :


    Troy's method of asking what the client wants to work on is the way I start out every day, but I take it a step or two farther.

    In an open, grassy area, I'll ask the client(s) to make a few casts "Just so I can watch the rod action." All this before putting boot in water. After a few minutes, I have a pretty good idea of what I've got to work with.

    Then I can talk about some of the casts we'll need to make. I'll ask the client to keep things short, because our casting range will be 30' or less; a roll cast because the trees are right at our backs; a reach cast because some of the fish are on the far bank and across the current; a tuck cast because sometimes the fish are in the hole right at our feet. You get the idea.

    I have found that the client usually learns something about casting that can be immediately applied, and they don't even know that I've been teaching. Then I can reinforce that throughout the day with things like, "Hey, there's a riser on the far bank. Let's try a reach cast." It gets them involved with the strategy.
     
    Ken

    Ken Cole
    Texas Fly Fishing Outfitters
    FFF/Certified Casting Instructor
    214 969-1030
    ken.cole@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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    From Jim Laing..............
     
    Gordy -
     
    Thanks for the helpful spey advice.  I would really like to meet Rick (and everyone else) - you guys are great! 
     
    It seems we have some interest in spey here in the Mid West.  I have a question from the group regarding line selection -
    We are looking at the Spey Exam Study Guide and some of the required casts are at 80'.  In Gawesworth's recommendations for spey rods,  he uses an A & B choice for each line/ rod.  A is for the advanced caster that will be making longer casts while pulling more line off the water.  These lines are lighter than the B's which are recommended for beginners....
    Given the casts are at 80' for the exam, I would suspect that a longer head would be more appropriate.  The windcutter is approx. 45' and the mid is approx. 65'. 
    For the 80' cast, I would think overhang would be a problem with these shorter heads and traditional spey casting. 
    Would you recommend starting out with the longer head?
     
    Also -
     
    Some of the new generation large arbor reels are coming out in a V shape.  We've already discussed the benefits of large arbor spools here, but how about the V shaped section?  I'm unsure about the answer to this, but I would like to take a shot....
    The V shape is not meant in anyway to reduce backing capacity.  I refuse to believe that, as I like to spend time in the backing and more is better!  The V shape, I believe is about storing line efficiently.  Backing has a lessor diameter than the flyline, and typically the diameter graduates up in thickness into the belly.  It would then make sense to make the inner spool narrow without compromising backing capacity.  The line is stored more efficiently as its retrieved.  With a wider spool, it seems harder to replace backing on the spool evenly and consistent.  If the backing or line is reeled on unevenly, we could potentially have slack, tangles and flyline rubbing against the frame.  I'm thinking this design aids in storing line more efficiently.  This design is probably most useful for larger reels/ salt water application - where one may spend much of the day in his backing.
     
    The flyshop here has turned me onto Bauer.  The new line of reels is called "the Rogue".  It incorporates a sealed carbon drag that does not need lubrication and the V shaped spool.  I think this is a new concept.... 
     
    What do you think?
     
    Jim Laing
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    Jim....
     
    An important part of my role with the Group is to avoid my giving advice when I know less that some others on a particular topic.  Spey casting is something I do only occasionally, and I am not certified nor really proficient in teaching it.   I will point out that the two handed study guide was written for those going for two handed certification.
     
    FOR THIS REASON, I'LL SOLICIT ANSWERS TO YOUR SPEY QUESTIONS FROM THOSE WHO ARE TRULY EXPERT IN THIS FIELD SUCH AS DAN MC CRIMMON, RICK WHORWOOD, ETC.
     
    As for your questions on large arbor reels:
     
    1. Having tried the V spools, I have seen no real advantage.
     
    2. I use Spectra backing, so I don't ever have a problem getting enough of the stuff on the reel.
     
    3. My own preference is to use reels with an ultra-large arbor for the advantages they offer including less effect on the drag setting when playing a big game fish, less tendency to have memory coils of the fly line, and the ability to have a very rapid retrieve when the critter turns and runs back toward me.
     
    4. The wider spool will hold a lot more line for the given spool diameter ..... but with spectra backing, that is rarely necessary.  Over the years, I've learned to direct the line to prevent it piling up on one side as I retrieve when fighting a fish.  This IS less of a problem with the narrow spool whether large arbor or standard arbor.   Before the advent of gel-spun backing and large arbor reels,  most big game fly reels had to have wide spools to accommodate sufficient backing and the fly lines.
     
    5. The, "sealed drag" is not a new concept.  Charlton reels used this for several years.  Their drag system was the best we tried ... though I understand they are not making reels at the present time.
     
    6. Quality drag systems have held up well under extremely adverse conditions even when not, "sealed".  These included the Tibor / Billie Pate series, Abel, and even the much less expensive Penn salt water fly reels which we tested.  We did find, however, that the only reel we tested in fine blowing sand at the surf at cape Hatteras which didn't bind up was the Tibor /Billie Pate ones.  The reason is that these reels are purposely made with less than fine mechanical tolerances.  Reels which were advertised as, "built to aircraft tolerances" were the first to bind up under these conditions.  Even if the drag system is sealed, the fine sand can bind the remainder of the reel mechanism.
     
    7.  When gel-spun backing first came out, we were sent samples to try.  The stuff had a tight weave/twist and was round in cross section.  It would bury in to itself on the reel, bind, and then the tippet would break on the run.  Modern material has a slightly less tight weave and flattens out just a tiny bit as you wind it up on the spool so it doesn't do that any longer.  Despite that, for big game, I still take pains to wind it on accurately and TIGHTLY as I install it on the reel.   Dacron doesn't pose a problem, except that you can't get as much on a given spool, and it is not abrasion resistant.  That becomes important when a large fish such as a tarpon runs under a big raft of floating sargassum weed which can part any backing other than Spectra.
     
    8.  Bauer makes a very good reel.  I have not fished one of them, so am going by their reputation based on info from friend who have used them.
     
    9.  With single handed casting, the term,"tackle balance" usually refers to proper matching of the line to the rod.  In my discussions with Simon Gawesworth and Topher Brown, I've learned that with two handed casting it usually refers to the physical balance point of the rod/reel combination.  That would be determined partlly by the weight of the reel.  With single handed casting, the lighter the reel the the greater the efficiency of the system .... casting with no reel at all can be pure joy.  (As you cast with a single handed rod, the weight of the reel acts as a counterpoise which provides inertia which must be overcome after the stop.)
     
    Gordy
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    From Al Crise:
     
    Howdy Gordy
      I found this today.
    Do we not teach wrong. With the understanding that it is how we do it wrong....???
     
     
     I have to do a class on Back Casting. I call it "better back cast to better presentation casts"
     
     On today's E mail
     
     The longer tip travel, of the slower rod, from deeper bending, Take the time allow for it to take place.
     
     
    I teach that the thumb up is a standard and allows the more rotation. Kids get a longer or more contact with the cork. stronger grip.
     The finger for targets, also stops over wristing for some on the backcast.
     The V grip for massive power, distance.
     
    ol Al 
     
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    Bob Andreae did a very informative presentation on the back cast, called, "YOUR MOST IMPORTANT CAST".
     
    In as much as a decent back cast is needed for an efficient forward cast, this made good sense as a teaching principle.
     
    Gordy
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