Acronyms / Answers to rod quiz

A young member of my inlaws recenty said at dinner: "let's BITHS!". Apparently, this an acronym and 'text-speak' for 'bring in the holiday spirit'.

To the point made by Bill Howland, I believe that it is appropriate writing style to define an acronym the first time it is referred to in a body of writing, e.x. Strait Line Path or S.L.P., before relying on it alone as an acronym. I confirmed this from a text I use in similar cases "The Elements of Style" Strunk & White 4th edition. Although a minor violation, Bill is absolutely in the right to feel left behind. By the way, or btw, like Bill, I was also left on the sideline by TLT as a term.

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Gordy,

I agree with Bill. Acronyms should only be used after "full name" is uesd first time in each and every article.

Another Bill

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Bill, Bill, Michael and All : You are right. I accept my deserved thrashing ! Gordy

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Many of us use certain terms to describe fly rods in different ways. Let's see how you do answering these questions:

1.) Your student asks you, "What is the best length for a fly rod ? " Your answer ?

"The length that is compatible with your intended purpose" An explanation of how rod length relates to casting, line management, fish playing, type of water being fished etc. would be in order.

2.) In trying for a bit more distance when casting your 5 wt. graphite fly rod, you feel that if you had just a bit more rod length you would be able to achieve a little bit more distance. Tim Rajeff recently showed us a trick that he uses. Do you remember what that was ?

I,m not sure what Tim's trick was, but positioning the casting hand as far back toward the butt as possible does give some effective extra rod length for me.

3.) Try to come up with a good description or definition of the term ROD ACTION.

b. More detailed answer. A fast action rod bends in the tip section. A medium action rod bends more through the tip and into the center of the rod and a slow action rod would bend throughout the rod length.

Correct. I might also add that it depends upon the stiffness and recovery rate profile. G.

4.) We have all heard of casters describing a fly rod as having lots of POWER. What do you think they mean ?

That is one way to look at it. The term can also refer to the weight of the line it can carry well. (Really the same thing.) G.

Yes. Another way to put it, is the amount of stress it can accept at 90 degrees to the butt section before failure. G.

6.) Salt water fly fishermen sometimes request a fly rod with 20 lbs. or greater LIFTING POWER. What application do you think they have in mind ?

Yes. You need a rod with lots of lifting power to pump a very large fish up from beneath the boat. Rods made for that purpose usually have a beefed up butt section. G.

7.) You have two fly rods. Each is rated at # 6 wt. One of them is 10' in length. The other is 8 1/2' long. The factory rep tells you that both have exactly the same EFFECTIVE ROD LENGTH. How can that be ?

The 10' rod could be a very soft action rod that will load and bend to the same effective rod length as the 8 1/2 ' rod which may be a fast action rod and bend much less

"The cord subtending the arc of a fully bent rod" Gordy--I would be wondering if a student would understand what that statement meant if I had to explain effective rod length to them. If I demonstrated by anchoring the rod butt to the ground, bending it and hanging a weighted string from the highest point along the bent rod shaft to the ground would that effectively demonstrate effective rod length?

Agree. Unless you draw the diagtram for your student, he isn't likely to understand that even though it is true. Your demonstration would go a lot further toward getting the point across. G.

11.) What (if any) changes would you make in your casting if you switch from a 10' long # 7 rod to an 8' long #7 fly rod assuming that they are both "medium fast" rods and you are using the same fly line ?

A longer casting stroke and wider casting arc to provide more tip travel for the shorter rod.

True.... though only part of the story. You would also need to change your timing. When going to the shorter rod, it is necessary to have a more rapid cadence which requires more rapid movement of the rod and shorter pause time. G.

12.) What (if any) changes would you make in your casting if you switch from a 9' long # 7 fast action rod to a 9' long #7 slow action "full flex" rod ?

Probably as in question 11 so the changes could accomodate the effective rod length of the slower action rod.

Another way to put it: When going from the fast action rod to the full flexion (soft action) one while carrying the same amount (wt.) of line, you would need to:

3. Increase pause time. These changes are needed if your objective is to make an efficient cast with a relatively small loop. That is because it is the way to match your casting arc to your rod bend. G.

13.) Your student is about to enter a distance casting competition. He asks you if the size and weight of his reel will make any difference. What do you tell him ?

I would tell him to go with a lighter reel. It would be more aerodynamic and less weight. There are probably some othe reasons I'm not thinking of.

Correct. A reel acts as a counterwight when casting. It has mass and therefore when moving has its own momentum. A large, heavy reel makes it harder to make a crisp stop. (This is why the rules of most if not all competition casting events require the caster to use a rod with reel attached.)

It is easy to prove this to yourself or your doubting student. Simply make the casts with a heavy reel in place; then remove the reel and make the same cast. G.

14.) This same student now asks you whether he should choose an up locking reel seat or a down locking seat for this event. Your advice ?

I'd tell him to choose a reel with a up locking reel seat. If he is distance casting he may choose to grip the rod more toward the reel seat and jeapordize loosening the the ring if it were a down locking reel seat.

Good point, though rarely an issue. I agree with Tim Rajeff who uses a 5 wt. Echo rod which he has made with a down locking reel seat. He uses it because it allows him to grip the rod way down toward the butt with his hand crowding the reel. This has the effect of slightly lengthening his rod. (If you go back a couple of days to one of our messages, you will see a link to a video by Tim in which he covers this).

15.) Another of your students is going on a trip. He will be fishing for very large, powerful fish. The fish camp operater has informed him that he won't need long casts, but that these fish are so powerful that not many can be landed. Ten to twelve wt. systems have been recommended. He is about to purchase a fly rod for that situation and he wants to know whether a long rod or a short rod would be best. What do you tell him ?

The longer rod provides a lever system which favors lots of tip travel for the amount of hand travel. Great for gaining tip speed for casting. That same long lever works against you when you are trying to achieve enough pressure to land a large fish. This is one reason it is extremely difficult to land a 100 lb. + tarpon when using a 15' long Spey rod. (I'll never try that again..... since the fish has to be played to exhaustion in order to get the creature in thus making it unlikely that a successful release can be accomplished.)

This is true even with big game trolling rods. It is the reason that ocean tournament rules often restrict the length of the rod by having a minimum length requirement.

Bottom line: The shorter the rod, the quicker you can land a big fish. Extrapolating to zero: You can land a fish a lot faster when using a handline ....... ie. "no rod." G.

16.) The angler in question 15.) has been advised to use a rod of a particular length. He now wants to know if this should be a stiff rod or one which is more flexible to land these big powerful fish. Your advice ?

A stiff short rod would provide better control for playing and landing these large powerful fish.

Assuming the rods are the same MEASURED length, the more flexible one will have the tip and most of the mid section flatten out along the line so that you end up fighting the fish with a much shorter effective rod length. With this flexible rod, then, you can apply a much greater amount of pressure to subdue the creature.*

* Described in detail in Floyd Franke's, FISH ON ! A Guide to Playing and Landing Big Fish on a Fly, Chapter 3. (Study Figure 3,4 on p. 47.)

18.) You have hooked a very large fish. As you apply pressure, your guide says, " Be careful not to break the ninety degree rule." What does he mean ?

I,m thinking that it would relate to the best rod angle to distribute the pulling ability of the fish and not putting the rod at an angle that would probably break it.

Yes. The best way to break a fly rod is to fight the fish with the rod at 90 degrees or greater with repect to the taught line. You are actually applying much more pressure to your rod than to the fish.

What the guide means is: "Don't raise your rod way up and apply pressure. If you do you may break it." G

19.) I actually had a student who had a severe allergy to cork. He'd already purchased two expensive fly rods and didn't want to spend a lot more money to solve his problem. Can you come up with a practical solution ?

Not really. The only thing I can think of is having the handles re built with a synthetic type handle. (hypalon?)

An expensive fix. Much easier to coat the cork with plastic, tape, or to sand it down and then apply the wind-on sticky backed material they use on golf club handles. G.

20.) You know the design requirements for the rod you wish to purchase. Now what do you actually do as you compare one rod with another at your fly shop ?

Ideally, have the line you are going to use with you on a reel and cast the rods to compare.

If that's not an option, hold the rod parallel with the floor and bend it slowly back and forth to try and get a feel of it's action, power and recovery abilities.

Yes. Someone who is expert on fly rods can tell a great deal by vibrating it in air. Your student isn't likely to gain any information at all by doing that or simply waving it about.

I like your first answer. If the shop keeper won't let me cast it, I won't buy it. G.

You bet. This would include lots of things such as the weather and other casting conditions, the size and weight of the flies used and the size and fighting ability of your quarry. G.

Yes. Another way to put it is that hoop strength is resistance to the tendency of a tubular rod to flatten out as it is bent. G.

23.) Of what value is the property of increased hoop strength of many modern fly rods ?

Agree. This also contributes to stiffness since this increases as the resistance to deformation (flattening) increases. G.

24.) Rod manufacturers use materials of greater modulus to make their rods stiffer and more responsive relative to rod weight. What else do they do to help accomplish the same thing ?

Yes. This includes increasing tubular diameter and adjustments to wall thickness. G.

Another way to put it : A flexion profile which is not linear (straight line relationship) but progressive along a parabolic curve.

Or : A rod made with a progressive taper (as opposed to a taper which doesn't vary). G.